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Author Topic: The Bravada  (Read 3554 times)
Leeann
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« on: July 26, 2009, 10:21:58 AM »

Some of you remember the adventures of getting my '93 Olds Bravada ready for inspection...here are some of the pics and trials & tribulations from then.


* Brav_right.jpg (96.62 KB, 1080x631 - viewed 230 times.)

* Brav_front.jpg (100.51 KB, 1080x1011 - viewed 220 times.)

* Brav_nose.jpg (98.63 KB, 640x432 - viewed 241 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2009, 10:22:33 AM »

few more


* Brav_backst.jpg (74.06 KB, 640x480 - viewed 221 times.)

* Brav_dash.jpg (102 KB, 600x450 - viewed 250 times.)

* Brav_Int1.jpg (102.57 KB, 1260x945 - viewed 205 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2009, 10:23:24 AM »

Few more...the third is of the 'fix' for a leaking heater core...gotta love POs  Roll Eyes


* Brav_Int2.jpg (98.4 KB, 810x1080 - viewed 236 times.)

* Vortec.jpg (99.63 KB, 540x405 - viewed 225 times.)

* Brav_Hint.jpg (96.01 KB, 640x690 - viewed 236 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2009, 10:25:51 AM »

When I tore into the dash to replace the heater core, I found a mess. The dummy apparently had done this once but didn't have a manual, didn't look anything up online, didn't have a clue, shouldn't be allowed to own tools...

There are 6 screws holding the heater core cover to the housing. He broke the ears off of 3 of them so only 3 bolts worked. He broke the blend door housing - fortunately for me, superglue worked. I got the old one out (with a teeny-tiny pinhole in the bottom left corner) and replaced and it's been fine since.
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2009, 10:28:20 AM »

I had to replace all 4 shocks and all 4 brakes - front pads, calipers and hoses and the rear shoes. Drums and wheel cylinders were good, fortunately.

The tires were free - they came with the '90 B250 I just recently sold - and happened to be the right size. The tires that were on the truck were dry-rotted, had no tread left and had destroyed valve stems (from being flat, I'd guess).


* BrakeShock.jpg (92.91 KB, 600x354 - viewed 225 times.)

* Bravada_Shoes.jpg (77.82 KB, 455x420 - viewed 223 times.)

* Bravada.jpg (96.99 KB, 900x422 - viewed 230 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2009, 10:30:00 AM »

I also had to replace the exhaust from the muffler back. The cat was okay. Sam actually did this because he was impatient and I was still having back spasms....

Surprisingly, the truck wasn't awfully loud, even with exhaust that looked like this. With the new exhaust in place, it's pretty quiet.


* BravadaExhaust.jpg (98.67 KB, 230x720 - viewed 224 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2009, 10:36:53 AM »

After I got the truck inspected and everything passed, I started having running/idling issues. I first thought I'd gotten some bad gas, stirred up some junk in the tank, something like that. After replacing the fuel filter and putting in 10 gallons of fresh fuel, nothing changed.

I checked the plugs and wires and replaced them (they were nasty). I also replaced the cap and rotor...as it turned out, the shaft on the distributor was really rusty like it'd sat without anything on it for a while and the rotor wouldn't seat fully, destroying the cap. Sam cleaned up the shaft with some emery cloth and we were good to go.

Except once it warmed up, we were back to square one.

So I pulled the EGR valve. Stupid PO had lost one of the mounting bolts and used a thinner/longer bolt with nut (the real bolt simply threads in, though the backs are open). This, of course, messed up the threads...Sam spent an hour with a bolt from the Astro and a wrench (access is very limited; only a 10mm wrench fits) cleaning up the threads. I cleaned the heck out of the EGR valve and put it back on. And all was well.

Until it again warmed up.

Finally, I pulled the IMTV (intake manifold tuning valve) from the top of the intake plenum and looked in - my fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I replaced that, cleaned the EGR again (huge chunks of carbon sticking the pintle open) and replaced it with a screened gasket this time. Then replaced the plugs again as they were blackened from fuel and carbon.

Now, finally, all is well.


* BravEGR.jpg (79 KB, 396x346 - viewed 230 times.)

* Bravada_Intake.jpg (83.93 KB, 350x263 - viewed 211 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2009, 10:47:47 AM »

I also had to replace both front window motors. GM, in its infinite wisdom, rivets the regulators to the doors with monster hardened steel rivets. It took forever with a die grinder to get them off - a drill just slipped and got hot and dulled itself.

The window motor is then riveted to the regulator, but only with 1/4" rivets that ground off in seconds. The new ones bolt on, then the whole assembly is bolted back to the door.

The PO also had removed the PWR ACC circuit breaker - the one that runs the power locks, power windows and power seats. The second I put it back in, the doors all locked. Except for the driver's door...as it turned out, he had disconnected the wiring harness to the actuator (improperly - he broke off the tab that holds it together).

Sam and I did a lot of testing and I did a lot of searching, and I found out it had to be the RKE (remote keyless entry) module, located under the center console; the system grounds through the module. I found one with a remote, even, in the pick-n-pull and took apart the center console to replace it. What did I find? The remnants of about 1 liter of Coke/Pepsi/Rootbeer/some brown soda. When I unbolted the module and turned it over, there was a charred spot about 1" in diameter. There was soda in the wiring connector - that took forever to clean out.

Got it all back together and it works perfectly.

Oh, and the ABS module had died. I spent an afternoon following the diagnostic flow chart in the FSM to figure out the solenoid valve inside had failed. I found a replacement in the pick'n'pull for $50 and got that replaced so the light would go off. Wouldn't pass inspection with it on. All is well with that, too.

I did drop the pan and change the fluid and filter on the tranny, but it was so clean inside you could eat off the pan. So that's not a worry, anyway. But the transfer case was another story...the fluid came out dark brown and no longer smelling of Dexron. I refilled it, drove it 100 miles, drained & refilled it again. Now, a couple thousand miles later, I think I'll do it again.

Lessee....oh, I had to replace the radiator, too. One of the plastic side tanks was cracked. Found one in the pick-n-pull that looked brand new. Got that replaced and all is well...but I had to replace the oil lines from the remote filter to the radiator in the process (one end was seized). That was a dealer-only part (ouch).

Umm...replaced thermostat, coolant temperature sender, upper & lower rad hoses (done with rad replacement) and O₂ sensor, cleaned existing IAC, replaced left headlight, right fog light, left marker light, both courtesy lights and license plate light, replaced both rear glass lift shocks from the pick-n-pull and replaced the tailgate lock handle.

Not so terrible for a $500 truck, no?
« Last Edit: July 26, 2009, 11:11:05 AM by Leeann » Logged

1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2009, 10:53:21 AM »

Before inspection, I topped off both the front and rear differentials. Took almost a full quart to top off both; they take 2 qts each to fill.

Friday, I decided to replace the rear cover and gasket and refill with synthetic gear oil. I wish I hadn't started...but all is well.

The Bravada's old enough not to have a drain plug on the rear diff, so you have to do the old loosen the bottom bolts and use a screwdriver to break the seal so fluid can drain without being TOOOOO big of a mess.

Only the first bolt broke the second I put the ratchet on it. Then so did another up on the left side. First one broke flush with the housing, the second broke with about 2-3 threads showing.

Sam spent yesterday drilling out the broken bolts and twisting out the shells with vise grips. The threads were undamaged and the bolts are simply 5/16" standard bolts, so they were easy to replace.

I had plenty of time to inspect the gears and the housing while cleaning up Friday, and I can't see any wear pattern at all. The fluid that came out was really black, but no apparent metal. The metal on the magnet isn't so bad for almost 17 years...and I'm willing to bet it had never been done (or if it had, it was at 30,000 miles and not since).


* Brav_Diff.jpg (106.46 KB, 640x480 - viewed 199 times.)

* Brav_InsideCvr.jpg (100.19 KB, 640x480 - viewed 224 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Leeann
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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2009, 10:55:56 AM »

Before I installed the new cover, I painted it. I put Rustoleum Rust Reformer (flat finish) on as a base coat, then Rustoleum Professional Enamel (gloss finish) on as a top coat. I don't like rust Wink

We didn't start on the bolts until about 11 yesterday and got that part done about 5:30 (with a long lunch break while we waited for PB Blaster to work), then I got the cover installed and fluid filled after that, in time to avoid a thunderstorm.


* Brav_NewCover.jpg (96.36 KB, 640x489 - viewed 205 times.)

* Brav_NewCvr2.jpg (100.38 KB, 640x485 - viewed 219 times.)

* Brav_NewCvrInst.jpg (99.12 KB, 640x437 - viewed 203 times.)
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Madlurch
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« Reply #10 on: August 29, 2010, 04:26:26 AM »

  I'm not familuar with the Bravada... Is it Olds's version of the S/ Jimmys and Blazers?

  Matt
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If you can't Dodge em...
Then RAM em!
Leeann
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« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2010, 07:45:28 AM »

Yep. It's AWD instead of 4x4. Uses the same Borg Warner 4472 transfer case as the AWD Astro and Safari.
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
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