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Author Topic: Griff's Project #1 (aka MLP)  (Read 11271 times)
Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2009, 02:57:03 PM »

Oops, wrong drawings ...


* Deck Side2.jpg (16.61 KB, 700x364 - viewed 276 times.)

* Deck Back2.jpg (21.56 KB, 1000x250 - viewed 298 times.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #31 on: May 03, 2009, 03:41:49 PM »

Excellent! You did good...must keep both occupied so they leave you alone.
I used to do the same thing in the Air Force ... I should write a book on how to manage your supervisor.

Oh, I am jealous...very, very jealous.
There's an outfit that makes heated, remotely adjustable mirror heads for West Coast type mirrors ... I've seen them on eBay.  (I seriously considered them but decided to go with the Velvacs.)

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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #32 on: May 07, 2009, 05:33:09 PM »

Found a picture of the mirrors.  I'll need to paint them black.

The resin metering pump for my WEST epoxy is gummed up so I got a new pump when I was in town.  It looks like the resin froze and crystallized in the old pump last winter.  Pat (aka Grandma Griff) is taking the old pump apart and cleaning it.  In the meanwhile, I've been heating the resin to reliquify it and will start using the new pump.



* 5b6e_1.JPG (16.51 KB, 400x300 - viewed 291 times.)
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #33 on: May 16, 2009, 03:01:35 PM »

Started doing the buildup for the back of the front deck.  As the picture shows, it's layers laminated together using WEST Epoxy.  (See my thread on WEST Epoxy.)

The layers of plywood and glass cloth yields a stronger laminate, plus it builds up to the 3/8" thickness I need.  (According to tests, the strongest laminate results from a glass cloth layer 1/3 of the way in from the surface, although the 1/2 way in I'm using will be more than strong enough.)

Still sorting and organizing stuff ... mostly clearing things away so I can work comfortably, while trying to make sure I can still find stuff when I need it.



* Exploded.jpg (25.97 KB, 648x464 - viewed 308 times.)
« Last Edit: May 16, 2009, 03:06:30 PM by Griff in Fairbanks » Logged

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Leeann
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« Reply #34 on: May 16, 2009, 07:58:39 PM »

Plan looks good, I can't wait to see it in pics!
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #35 on: July 19, 2009, 02:07:11 AM »

Due to a family situation, I've had to postpone work on MLP again.  Instead, I've started building another boat.  (The third boat I've built and the fifth boat I've owned since moving to Alaska.)  It's a Bolger/Payson Diablo Grande, 18 feet overall with a 6 foot beam.  The Diablo Grande is a newer, longer version of the 15 foot Diablo, which I'd been thinking about building for several years.  (Most of the stuff on the 'net -- such as this and this -- talks about the shorter version.)  Erin (my daughter) and I talked it over and decided the 18 foot version would suit us better, considering we'd like to take it out on Kachemak Bay, Cook Inlet, Resurrection Bay, Port of Valdez, and Prince William Sound.

There's a lot of things on MLP that the grandkids can't help me with (or even be around), such as sandblasting, degreasing, hoisting and moving heavy objects, etc.  They can "help" me build a boat, mostly by holding tape measures, sitting on boards while I saw them, and scrubbing the amine blush off cured epoxy.

I'll try to take some pictures and start a thread about the boat.
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #36 on: June 12, 2011, 07:27:44 PM »

(Some) work has restarted on MLP ... a little bit here and there in-between the new job and building the house.
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #37 on: June 12, 2011, 07:51:00 PM »

Oh, yeah ... found the red I want for the body ... there's a late model Charger and a late model Ram running around town, both with a red, red paint job ... the paint guy at work says it's Dodge Red.  (Also saw a Viper that looked like it had the same paint but the blonde seat cover was kinda distracting.)
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Leeann
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« Reply #38 on: June 12, 2011, 07:55:17 PM »

ROTFLMAO  Grin
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1973 Concord 20' Class A - 440/727
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« Reply #39 on: June 12, 2011, 08:13:10 PM »

I ain't too old to understand the distraction!
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #40 on: July 16, 2011, 02:14:05 PM »

Some of you may remember, a couple of years ago, I went through a lot of research trying to find calipers for the RM350 chassis.  All the catalogs showed single piston calipers and this chassis had dual piston calipers.

Using the casting number off the calipers (KH91133), I found a match at NAPA and they actually had a set on the shelf.  My buddy at NAPA checked and said they were a regularly stocked item so I didn't buy them right then ...

A couple of months ago, that NAPA store caught fire and burned up.  Everything inside was declared contaminated and hauled off the the hazmat depot ... including my &^%$#@& calipers.

So, I started digging through the CarQuest catalogs and found a listing that actually specified "w/ Kelsey Hayes dual piston calipers."  Double-checked the cross reference to verify and checked to see if there were any in the system ... six of each (right and left) in Portland, so I ordered a set.  (I want them in my grubby mitts this time.)

CarQuest p/n is 18-4271 (right) and 18-4272 (left).

Brake pads are in Anchorage ... p/n RMD87 ... and regularly stocked so I haven't ordered them yet.  Waiting until fall, when I'm through buying building materials and can start spending (more) of my paychecks on MLP.

Next, I went looking for the brake boosters.  (They're 38 years old so I figured I'd go ahead and replace them rather than waiting for one or both of them to fail.)  Found an old CarQuest booster catalog (the same one I used to get the p/n for Leeann's booster) with a listing that kinda, sorta seem right.  Cross referenced the tag number on the existing boosters to verify ... p/n 51-8055 and the checked the system for availability and price.  List price is somewhere between $400 and $500, jobber price is $277, and employee price is $177.  (Yes, that's one of the main reasons I took this job.)  However, none in the system so they have to be ordered direct from the rebuilder.  (I think it's Precision Rebuilders.)  The system also specifies UPS Ground shipping, which probably means around $200 each to Alaska and they'd probably be damaged, if they arrive at all.  (UPS has damaged 40% of the packaging and lost significant parts of 20% of the shipments sent to me via UPS "service".)

Talked to the boss about my UPS shipping issues and also told him I wouldn't be able to pay for them until October, so he ordered them as a non-stock, back-ordered item through normal CarQuest channels, versus special order "get-'em-here-quick" channels.

Also looked for, and found, listings for the check valves ... CarQuest is really proud of them so I'm gonna find out/figure out how to test the ones I have before ordering one.  (No, they're NOT gold-plated, contrary to what the price seemed to indicate.)

Next, we started trying to find rotors ... which is when the real fun started.  All the catalogs claimed p/n 5318 but the online picture didn't look right.  Boss kept insisting they had to be the right ones and I kept telling him I'd been around the search flagpole many times, without success.  (I even tried to bet him they weren't right ... smart man, because making bets is another source of income for me ... because I don't gamble.)  So, he ordered one from Anchorage and I pulled the right hub and rotor off the chassis.

The 5318 rotor arrived and he could see the difference from 20 feet away.  (The 5318 rotor has a high "hat" and the rotor off the chassis barely has any "hat" at all.)  He then spent most of an afternoon wading through catalogs and the online system, calling anyone and everyone who might know something, and pounding the hell out of the Internet trying to find a replacement set.  The best he could do is find one (expensive) set in the Internet and no way to order then them through CarQuest.  (I found three more, less expensive, sources on the 'net that evening so now he believes me when I say, "If it exists on the 'net. I can find it.")

Having given up trying to find a set, the boss took a close look at the rotors I had.  They've go lots of rust pitting but it looks like they've never been turned so he decided we can salvage and restore them.  I'm gonna sandblast the rust off them and we'll shave the rust pits off the rim.  Everyone at work is recommending 500 degree caliper paint but I'm not too sure.  I'm leaning towards a black oxide coating or some kind of durable plating.  After they're restored (as much as we can), we'll turn 'em and they should be good to go.

BTW - I actually found four sources on the 'net, besides the one the boss found.  However, when I entered the number one of the sources claimed fit a RM350 chassis, the CarQuest system cross-referenced it back to the same &%$#&@ 5318 part number.  R1Concepts.com lists a pair for $325 and their specifications match the rotors I have.  Alretta says they can provide the right rotors (and mention the wide variation used on old Dodge motorhome chassis) but I'd have to call them.  The third source seems right but doesn't have enough info online for me to be sure.  (So, if we can't salvage the rotors I have, I can get replacements.)

When I pulled the hub and rotor, the first thing I noticed was whoever put it together definitely believed in bearing grease ... there was at least a half tube inside the hub.  The grease on the bearings was gray (not black) and there was a big glob between the bearings that was oxidized but effectively unused.  The bearings look new, other than a bit of tarnish where they slide onto the spindles.

The seal doesn't have a number on it so I called a buddy at work (can't have him getting bored on a rainy Saturday morning) and he cross-referenced the number from my OEM catalog and ordered a pair from Anchorage.


« Last Edit: July 16, 2011, 02:17:58 PM by Griff in Fairbanks » Logged

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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #41 on: August 08, 2011, 10:28:24 AM »

Been doing a little here and there on MLP.  Front axle, with springs and sway bar attached, is removed from frame ... it's still laying under the frame but unbolted.

Ordered Arm & Hammer washing soda from Amazon (couldn't find any locally) so I can try electrolytic rust removal.

Got my new pressure tank type sandblaster working ... much more aggressive than my suction blaster.  Need to set up a tarp to catch the sand and recycle it rather than just letting it fall in the dirt on the driveway.  (May buy or build a blast cabinet.)

The reman brake boosters arrived Saturday but I didn't find out until I went to work on Sunday ... that's gonna eat up most of a paycheck, even with my employee discount.  Front wheel seals arrived and are sitting in the box I'm using to collect new parts.

Calipers and brakes booster air filter still in the pipeline, along with miscellaneous other stuff.

Did some powdercoating, as a test, on one of the front axle grease caps.  One coat of zinc-rich primer, two coats of gloss black, and two coats of starlight clear.  Had some contamination issues and the result wasn't quite what I'd hoped for ... the two coats of starlight clear, with the fine metal flakes, lightened the black to a dark gray.  (Trying for a sparkly black, as an accent in the center of the silver wheels.)  Ordered more primer powder, two-stage near-chrome powder, black starlight powder (a translucent black with fine metal flakes), and high-gloss clear powder ... we'll see if Eastwood has decided to be reasonable about their shipping.  (Previously, they've tried to charge me more for shipping simply because I live in Alaska, even though it costs them exactly the same to mail a package to a post office box in Seattle as it does to mail the same package to my post office box in Fairbanks ... I cancelled the order that time because they insisted the extra charge was necessary.)

However, I do like the "starlight" effect ... metal flakes too fine to notice until light hits them.

And, finally, the CarQuest store where I work has the center driveline bearing support assembly in stock.
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Leeann
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« Reply #42 on: August 08, 2011, 07:19:12 PM »

Progress is good. Good progress is even better.

I like the idea for the powdercoating.  The starlight effect sounds awesome Wink
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Griff in Fairbanks
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« Reply #43 on: September 11, 2011, 10:55:56 PM »

A question for y'all, but first some updates ...

Eastwood is run by idiots ... as usual, they tried to charge me a premium just because I live in Alaska, even though it costs them exactly the same to the same things to a post office box in Seattle or Los Angeles.

Columbia Coatings has the same thing and is much more reasonable, reliable, and helpful.

Air filter for brake boosters (CarQuest CFI 87720) and new front wheel seals (SLS 3210) came in.  Looked up the driveline carrier bearing assembly (that the local driveline shop said was no longer available) and found we had one on the shelf (BGS HB-88107-A).  (Corporation must have thought there was a demand, because they replaced the one I bought with two in the next restock shipment.)

Brake boosters (51-8055) came on two months early.  We ordered them as non-stock back-order items in an attempt to get them to arrive sometime in October.  CarQuest probably had to go back to the remanufacturer to get them so we thought it'd take a while.  Boss is allowing me to leave them on the shelf until I'm ready to pay for them in October.

Brake calipers (18-4271 and 18-4272, right and left respectively) also came in just as my employee account came on line so I promptly maxed out the account getting them.  (There's a fairly low limit on accounts for part-time employees.)

Front axle, etc. is still laying on the ground.  Need to get them up before the snow covers them and taken apart so I can start reconditioning the components.

Have tracked down the part numbers for shocks, brake flex-lines, master cylinder and other miscellaneous parts but haven't ordered them yet ... no need to stress out the system with too many orders all at once.

Am starting to build a heated 12' x 16' shop so I'll have somewhere besides the snow and cold to work on things ... also need the shop because I'm getting a lot of pressure from local folks to set up a powdercoating business.  (I'll provide the tools, shop, etc. and son-in-law will provide the labor.)

Got washing soda I need to give electrolytic rust removal a try.

Now for the question, but first the background:

A while back, I worked out the details for putting both an oil pressure gauge and an idiot light in using one of the newer sensors that combine the variable resistor and switch in a single unit.  (Leeann's already put it in her motorhome.)  That takes care on one of the three "engine-killers", with the other two being engine temperature and electrical voltage.  Last week, a customer came in looking for a temperature sensor for a Neon, which got me started working on both a gauge and idiot light for engine temperature.

Unlike oil pressure, the computers in newer vehicles actually use the variable output from the engine temperature thermistor to control the engine.  (The computers are only concerned with whether or not there's enough oil pressure so they use the switch part, and the variable resistor part is only there to drive the gauge in the dash that lets the average numskull think they know what's going on.)  In fact, oil pressure switches are becoming rare enough that they're getting hard to find ... it took us a couple of hours of digging through the books to find any listings at all ... in a twenty-year-old catalog the boss kept because he only trusts the computers as far as he can throw them without snagging the cords on the counter.

So, I'm left with with two options:

1.  Tee off off the wire to the gauge with a voltage comparator that triggers an LED and/or buzzer when the sensor resistance reaches a certain point.

--- OR ---

2.  Put in a second sensor (one of the old-style switches) to drive the idiot warning light.

For what it's worth, there's a certain attractiveness in having two separate circuits for monitoring engine temperature.

Autometer makes radiator/heater hose adapters that allow the sensor to be installed in the hoses.  (Picture below.)

What do you think?  If the second option, in the lower radiator hose or the heater hose?

BTW - voltage/alternator/battery idiot light will be easy to do ... just a bit of skull work to modify existing circuit diagrams.


* 2283_d.jpg (17.7 KB, 300x300 - viewed 220 times.)
« Last Edit: September 11, 2011, 10:58:03 PM by Griff in Fairbanks » Logged

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Charlie1935
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« Reply #44 on: September 12, 2011, 06:43:32 AM »

I would go with separate circuits for oil pressure. The combined units like on my 96 pickup are notorious for being inaccurate as far pressure readings.
For temp. sensor how about the water pump bypass hose. It has flow at all times. Heater hose wouldn't if you had heater temp control off.
I don't know of any one doing that with the water temp. gauge, just an idea that popped into my head,
« Last Edit: September 13, 2011, 09:49:21 PM by Charlie1935 » Logged
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